Leaving Bangkok's Visa Purgatory

Elaine: Mr. Peterman, you can't leave.

J. Peterman: I've already left, Elaine. I'm in Burma.

Elaine: Burma?

J. Peterman: You most likely know it as Myanmar, but it will always be Burma to me. Bonne chance, Elaine. (to a passerby) You there on the motorbike! Sell me one of your melons! (runs after him)

-Seinfield - The Foundation, Episode #135, Season Eight

It is very American of me, I suppose, to first hear of obscure SE Asian countries through television shows. Myanmar, previously known as Burma, gives many people the slip due to its name being changed in the late 80's. You can go there? Don't they have an oppressive military regime? Yes and Yes.

The government makes much of its money through tourism as they own many hotels, one of four air companies, the train system and some ferries. For the traveler to Myanmar, there is always the question of whether or not to visit. Some argue that you are supporting a communist regime that oppresses a nation, while others argue it is good to have a foreign presence to bear witness to the country and its situation. I have chosen the latter and will be doing my best to avoid all government run stores, hotels and transportation.

I am also breaking my vow of overland travel. It is possible to take a ferry into Southern Myanmar, but I would likely have to take government ferries to Yangon as the roads in the south are closed to foreigners Regardless, I must fly out of Myanmar, as there are no border crossings with Bangladesh or India, my next destinations

So, as oppressive military regimes go, the Internet is heavily censored. I am excited to see how it compares with China and I am going to try a few circumvention techniques for the hell of it. Don't be worried if you don't hear from me for a while. If it has been 28 days, then get worried

I am told that stepping off the plane in Myanmar is like stepping 50 years into the past. I like to think of it as the Cuba of SE Asia. I also read that Myanmar is one of the few countries where a foreign visitor is still a traveler, not a tourist.

So, I am off once more after ten days of enjoying Bangkok's delicious street food, roaring tuk-tuks and the general friendliness of the Thai people.